Perfume Formula: Flowers On The Avenue

On a recent trip to New York I spent the afternoon with Christine from PerfumerSupplyHouse. We had a great time sniffing various samples she had brought with her and samples I had carried from New Zealand for her. Christine had with her a small amount of peach leaf absolute which was amazing! I am fanatical about leaf absolutes of any kind (mango leaf, rose leaf, violet leaf, etc) so I decided to make a perfume with a peach note.

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Neroli Oil Replacer Base

Neroli is one of the most expensive essential oils still in use in mainstream perfume. It is often now used in trace amounts but in the past it was used more heavily as perfume was more about luxury and less about mainstream marketing. This is a luxury Neroli oil replacer which really is excellent and will extend your neroli ten times. The formula does include real neroli oil but you will obviously still save enormous amounts of money using this base instead of pure oil.

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Orange Blossom Base

Orange blossom is one of the oldest and most important perfumery notes. It was central to the first colognes in fact. The price of orange blossom (and the closely related neroli) is very high so replacements of a high calibre are needed. This accord is based on a formula by Poucher with a minor tweak to make it more natural and closer to the best orange blossom absolute I have smelt. It’s a small tweak but makes a big difference. This is also incredibly natural smelling – about as close to the real thing as you can get synthetically I think.

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Sampaquita by Givaudan (Replica)

Sampaquita is a modern sophisticated jasmine base made by Givaudan. It is based in part on a headspace analysis of Jasmine Sambac (from the Philippines) but it also includes a pretty huge dose of Hedione High Cis (Methyl dihydrojasmonate). The scent is quite soft as far as jasmine accords go – with the benzyl acetate (main component of jasmine) being relegated to a secondary role.

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Vintage Dianthine Base

One of the most important perfumery bases of the early 1900s was Firmenich’s Dianthine base. It is a luxurious carnation accord that has not yet been surpassed in its beauty. It was used in huge amounts in many well known fragrances—Coty used 20% in his incredible L’Origan (the inspiration for L’Heure Bleue by Guerlain). Firmenich still make this base but it is, of course, IFRA approved meaning all the goodness has been stripped from it.

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