Sandalwood is now so expensive that chemicals are ubiquitous in replacing it in most fragrances. This formula is a particularly useful one in that it gives you both natural sandalwood and a beautifully balanced combination of the finest sandalwood chemicals.
Mandarin is, to my nose, perhaps the most beautiful and complex of all the citrus notes in perfume. We are fortunate to have such a plentiful supply of the real oil from a variety of places and in a variety of forms (red, yellow, green, etc).
Once upon a time, Rose de Mai was the main rose absolute used in fine French fragrances. These days the price is prohibitive and the absolute is mainly available to big houses like Dior and Chanel. But all is not lost! You can make your own Rose de Mai.
Brazilian Rosewood oil is becoming harder to purchase on the regular market these days due to scarcity. Typically perfumers these days will use synthetic linalool to fill the gap now left. But genuine Brazilian rosewood had qualities that you simply can’t get from linalool on its own. Those qualities come from trace elements of chemicals […]
This is a very basic leather base that has been modified with the addition of a few interesting trace elements to add naturalness and interest. It was created in order to add a complex leather note to my L’Egoiste derived fragrance as opposed to a simpler leather based on just isobutyl quinoline.
The finest Jasmine in the world is Jasmin de Grasse, or French Jasmine Grandiflorum absolute. Unfortunately it is nearly impossible to get hold of because Patou and Chanel still purchase most of the French Jasmine for Chanel No 5 and Joy (and presumably 1,000 which is also still in production).
Neroli is one of the most expensive essential oils still in use in mainstream perfume. It is often now used in trace amounts but in the past it was used more heavily as perfume was more about luxury and less about mainstream marketing. This is a luxury Neroli oil replacer which really is excellent and […]
Rose D’Orient (Oriental Rose) bases were early attempts to replicate the essential oils of rose (typically Bulgarian – or Rose Damascena). Two in particular were very popular with one featuring as the main rose in Coty’s La Rose Jacqueminot and later L’Origan.
Jasminum Flexile (also known as Taruni) is native to India. It is a rare and quite expensive variant of jasmine for perfumery but perhaps the best of all the jasmines—surpassing even Sambac.
Louis Appell has some amazing formulae and bases in his book The Formulation and Preparation of Cosmetics Fragrances and Flavors and one in particular is a real favorite of mine. He calls it “Rose W” and has this to say about rose bases in general: “Absolutes of rose [around $4,000 per kg] and jasmine are […]