One of the first fragrances I purchased for myself was the original Egoiste by Chanel. All these years later I am never without a bottle and have since acquired the near-mythical Égoïste Cologne Concentrée and a much loved bottle of Bois Noir, the very short lived fragrance that was the precursor to the final Egoiste.
Having sampled my bottle of the Concentree when I first bought it I decided that I would like to make something similar with the very finest possible ingredients I could get my hands on at the time. And from there was born this nod to Egoiste.
The formula is based on anecdotes and samples of computer analysed formulae, but beyond that I have added a large number of my own favorite things.
Upon letting this rest for a time (and it needs it) you can definitely tell that this is a child of the vintage Egoiste but it is a fragrance in its own right. I seldom give praise to the results of my own labors but in the case of this I think the final perfume (properly aged and diluted) is better than any of the Egoiste family on the market today.
This formula is insanely expensive and uses materials that are difficult to acquire. Do your best to get the best but I’ll mention substitutes where possible.
My Nod to Égoïste
|180||Rosewood Oil Brazil||Rosewood Oil Replacer|
|140||Hedione||Firmenich is supreme|
|120||Sadalwood Chemical Complex||Formula below|
|100||Mysore Sandalwood||Best sandalwood you have|
|50||Linalyl Acetate ex Petitgrain|
|45||Cyclosia||Hydroxycitronellal any brand|
|40||Lavender Barreme||Your best soft lavender|
|40||Citronellol Laevo||Regular citronellol|
|20||Vanilla Absolute Madagascar||Yes really that much!|
|15||Coriander Seed Bulgaria|
|10||Labdanum Complex||Formula below|
|10||Ylang Ylang Extra Organic||Best Ylang you have|
|10||Cuir (Leather) base||Preferred leather base|
|10||Grapefruit Oil USA|
|8||Neroli Bigarade||Neroli Base|
|5||Cinnamon Bark Ceylon|
|5||Rose Otto Bulgaria||Rose d’Orient Base|
|5||Anise Oil (Spanish)|
|5||Ambrettolide Natural||Scentolide, or ambrettolide|
|2||Tobacco Blond Absolute||John Steele is best|
|1||Castoreum Absolute 100%|
|1||Damascenone Beta||NOT Damascone beta|
|0.5||Allyl Amyl Glycolate|
What do you do if you want a more complex, complete, longer lasting labdanum note that appears earlier in the sequence of notes? Use a variety of forms of the plant extracts.
|670||Labdanum Absolute||John Steele has the best|
|200||Cistus Oil||Brighter: essential oil|
|100||Grisambrene||Noblest elements of Labdanum|
|30||Ambrarome||Old school fecal and rich|
Sandalwood Chemical Complex
A lovely accord of three of the great sandalwood chemicals – they are harmonious and magical.