Perfume Formula: A Nod To Égoïste

One of the first fragrances I purchased for myself was the original Egoiste by Chanel. All these years later I am never without a bottle and have since acquired the near-mythical Égoïste Cologne Concentrée and a much loved bottle of Bois Noir, the very short lived fragrance that was the precursor to the final Egoiste.

Having sampled my bottle of the Concentree when I first bought it I decided that I would like to make something similar with the very finest possible ingredients I could get my hands on at the time. And from there was born this nod to Egoiste.

The formula is based on anecdotes and samples of computer analysed formulae, but beyond that I have added a large number of my own favorite things.

Upon letting this rest for a time (and it needs it) you can definitely tell that this is a child of the vintage Egoiste but it is a fragrance in its own right. I seldom give praise to the results of my own labors but in the case of this I think the final perfume (properly aged and diluted) is better than any of the Egoiste family on the market today.

This formula is insanely expensive and uses materials that are difficult to acquire. Do your best to get the best but I’ll mention substitutes where possible.

My Nod to Égoïste

Quantity Ingredient Comments
180 Rosewood Oil Brazil Rosewood Oil Replacer
140 Hedione Firmenich is supreme
120 Sadalwood Chemical Complex Formula below
100 Mysore Sandalwood Best sandalwood you have
80 Green Mandarin
50 Linalyl Acetate ex Petitgrain
45 Cyclosia Hydroxycitronellal any brand
40 Lavender Barreme Your best soft lavender
40 Citronellol Laevo Regular citronellol
30 Geranium Bourbon
30 Coumarin Natural Synthetic
20 Clovebud Zanzibar
20 Vanilla Absolute Madagascar Yes really that much!
15 Coriander Seed Bulgaria
10 Labdanum Complex Formula below
10 Ylang Ylang Extra Organic Best Ylang you have
10 Cuir (Leather) base Preferred leather base
10 Grapefruit Oil USA
10 Dihydromyrcenol
8 Prunella (Firmenich)
8 Neroli Bigarade Neroli Base
5 Cinnamon Bark Ceylon
5 Rose Otto Bulgaria Rose d’Orient Base
5 Anise Oil (Spanish)
5 Ambrettolide Natural Scentolide, or ambrettolide
3 Oregano Greece
2.5 Spearmint Oil
2 Tobacco Blond Absolute John Steele is best
2 Dianthine Base
2 Cedramber
1.5 Pyralone Isobutyl Quinoline
1 Castoreum Absolute 100%
1 Damascenone Beta NOT Damascone beta
0.5 Allyl Amyl Glycolate
0.5 Tabanon (Symrise)

Labdanum Complex

What do you do if you want a more complex, complete, longer lasting labdanum note that appears earlier in the sequence of notes? Use a variety of forms of the plant extracts.

Quantity Ingredient Comments
670 Labdanum Absolute John Steele has the best
200 Cistus Oil Brighter: essential oil
100 Grisambrene Noblest elements of Labdanum
30 Ambrarome Old school fecal and rich

Sandalwood Chemical Complex

A lovely accord of three of the great sandalwood chemicals – they are harmonious and magical.

Quantity Ingredient Comments
615 Sandalore
230 Dartanol
155 Polysantol