Once upon a time, Rose de Mai was the main rose absolute used in fine French fragrances. These days the price is prohibitive and the absolute is mainly available to big houses like Dior and Chanel. But all is not lost! You can make your own Rose de Mai.
I am quite a fan of the perfume Dzing! by L’Artisan Perfumer and I recently read that it was to be discontinued (though I am unsure if that is true or not). I also happen to love animalic notes in perfume and classical music so I decided to make a fragrance that was a nod to Dzing! whilst focussing heavily on the animals and named after the famous piece by Berlioz.
One of the first fragrances I purchased for myself was the original Egoiste by Chanel. All these years later I am never without a bottle and have since acquired the near-mythical Égoïste Cologne Concentrée and a much loved bottle of Bois Noir, the very short lived fragrance that was the precursor to the final Egoiste.
Brazilian Rosewood oil is becoming harder to purchase on the regular market these days due to scarcity. Typically perfumers these days will use synthetic linalool to fill the gap now left. But genuine Brazilian rosewood had qualities that you simply can’t get from linalool on its own. Those qualities come from trace elements of chemicals such as linalool oxide, camphor, caryophellene oxide, etc.
This is a very basic leather base that has been modified with the addition of a few interesting trace elements to add naturalness and interest. It was created in order to add a complex leather note to my L’Egoiste derived fragrance as opposed to a simpler leather based on just isobutyl quinoline.