Rose D’Orient (Rose Otto) Base

Rose D’Orient (Oriental Rose) bases were early attempts to replicate the essential oils of rose (typically Bulgarian – or Rose Damascena). Two in particular were very popular with one featuring as the main rose in Coty’s La Rose Jacqueminot and later L’Origan.

The formula presented here is for a modernised Rose D’Orient. It is based on the vintage style but with the addition of some modern chemicals and with a bit of help from gas chromatography which has, in modern times, revealed some of the secrets of rose oil.

This base contains a high amount of natural rose oil (to naturalise and make it more realistic) but you can omit it if you find it too costly. You could also add more or less to your liking. Obviously the more you add the more luxurious the end result will be. In calculated doses this is an IFRA compatible base.

The Formula

Quantity Ingredient Comments
200 Citronellol Laevo Cheaper citronellol is fine also
180 Rhodinol ex Geranium Bourbon A Synthetic rhodinol base will work
165 Geraniol ex Palma Rosa
100 Phenylethyl Alcohol
100 Rose Otto (Bulgarian) Omit if too costly
70 Ionone Alpha
50 Cinnamic Alcohol
45 Guaiyl Acetate Guaiac Wood can be used instead
40 Rosone Rose Crystals
35 Geranyl Acetate
30 Phenyl Acetic Acid
20 Rhodinyl Formate Fresh leafy note
15 Methyl Eugenol
10 Phenyl Ethyl Tiglate
8 Eugenol
5 Orris Butter
5 Caryophellene Beta
4 Rose Leaf Absolute Natural green – omit if you don’t have it
3 Laevo Rose Oxide Pure! Not diluted
6 Phenyl Acetaldehyde 50%
3 Geranyl Butyrate
2 Aldehyde C-11 Undecylenic
1 Damascone Beta
1 Muscone Laevo Fixative
2 Damascenone Beta 10%
1100