Rose D’Orient (Oriental Rose) bases were early attempts to replicate the essential oils of rose (typically Bulgarian – or Rose Damascena). Two in particular were very popular with one featuring as the main rose in Coty’s La Rose Jacqueminot and later L’Origan.
The formula presented here is for a modernised Rose D’Orient. It is based on the vintage style but with the addition of some modern chemicals and with a bit of help from gas chromatography which has, in modern times, revealed some of the secrets of rose oil.
This base contains a high amount of natural rose oil (to naturalise and make it more realistic) but you can omit it if you find it too costly. You could also add more or less to your liking. Obviously the more you add the more luxurious the end result will be. In calculated doses this is an IFRA compatible base.
|200||Citronellol Laevo||Cheaper citronellol is fine also|
|180||Rhodinol ex Geranium Bourbon||A Synthetic rhodinol base will work|
|165||Geraniol ex Palma Rosa|
|100||Rose Otto (Bulgarian)||Omit if too costly|
|45||Guaiyl Acetate||Guaiac Wood can be used instead|
|40||Rosone Rose Crystals|
|30||Phenyl Acetic Acid|
|20||Rhodinyl Formate||Fresh leafy note|
|10||Phenyl Ethyl Tiglate|
|4||Rose Leaf Absolute||Natural green – omit if you don’t have it|
|3||Laevo Rose Oxide||Pure! Not diluted|
|6||Phenyl Acetaldehyde 50%|
|2||Aldehyde C-11 Undecylenic|
|2||Damascenone Beta 10%|