Jasminum Flexile (also known as Taruni) is native to India. It is a rare and quite expensive variant of jasmine for perfumery but perhaps the best of all the jasmines—surpassing even Sambac.
Thanks to the excellent comparative study done by Norbert A. Braun, Birgit Kohlenberg, Sherina Sim, Manfred Meier and Franz-Josef Hammerschmidt (all from Symrise), I was able to put together an accord based on both the headspace analysis of the flowers of Jasminum Flexile and the chemical constituents analysis of Jasminum Flexile absolute.
In order to make this base complex and luxurious as a replacer for the absolute, I have used two formulae—one is the basic structure of the jasmine accord, which comprises the majority of the finished product, while the other is a complex base of very strong chemicals found in small or trace amounts in genuine flexile absolute. This gives depth and naturalness to the final base.
The Scent of Jasminum Flexile
Braun, et al, asked a panel of perfumers to analyze the scent of Jasminum Flexile compared to Jasmine Sambac, Jasmine Grandiflorum, and Jasmine Auriculatum. This is what they had to say about Flexile:
“In contrast to Jasmine Sambac, stand-alone character in the top note: very round, harmonious and very complex narcotic, but not too animalic-cresolic and no fatty side aspects; much less indolic with a definite hyacinth character with honey like undertones; after one week at the smelling strip pleasant jasmine note with nearly unchanged odor profile.”
The hyacinth/honey notes are contributed by the presence of a fairly high amount of phenyl acetaldehyde (compared to other Jasmines). The other significant difference between Jasmine Flexile and the other three Jasmines is that Flexile contains a high amount of methyl salicylate (more than 10 times as much) and methyl benzoate (three times as much as Jasmine Sambac). This lends a slightly tuberose-like quality to the fragrance.
Trace Elements Base
You should make this base up at least a week before proceeding with the final flexile base – in order to give the ingredients time to meld together and soften. If you already have a jasmine base you love, you could use the following formula to enhance it with flexile-like qualities. Alternatively a final base Jasmine formula is included below this base.
|10||Cis 3 Hexenol|
|40||Dimethyl Sulfide 1%|
|10||Cis 3 Hexenol Acetate|
Jasminum Flexile Base Formula
The accord above comprises eight percent of the following jasmine base. You could most definitely experiment with varying quantities of the main ingredients to create a jasmine base of your liking.
|80||Trace Elements Base||Formula above|
|60||Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde|