Jasminum Flexile (also known as Taruni) is native to India. It is a rare and quite expensive variant of jasmine for perfumery but perhaps the best of all the jasmines—surpassing even Sambac.
Louis Appell has some amazing formulae and bases in his book The Formulation and Preparation of Cosmetics Fragrances and Flavors and one in particular is a real favorite of mine. He calls it “Rose W” and has this to say about rose bases in general: “Absolutes of rose [around $4,000 per kg] and jasmine are particularly important.
Orange blossom is one of the oldest and most important perfumery notes. It was central to the first colognes in fact. The price of orange blossom (and the closely related neroli) is very high so replacements of a high calibre are needed. This accord is based on a formula by Poucher with a minor tweak to make it more natural and closer to the best orange blossom absolute I have smelt. It’s a small tweak but makes a big difference. This is also incredibly natural smelling – about as close to the real thing as you can get synthetically I think.
Parma violets have existed since the 16th century when Count Pierre Savorgnan de Brazza cross-bred two types of viola strains. Of the two types of parma violet he created, only one remains and it is that one which gives us the most beautiful of all violet scents.
Sampaquita is a modern sophisticated jasmine base made by Givaudan. It is based in part on a headspace analysis of Jasmine Sambac (from the Philippines) but it also includes a pretty huge dose of Hedione High Cis (Methyl dihydrojasmonate). The scent is quite soft as far as jasmine accords go – with the benzyl acetate (main component of jasmine) being relegated to a secondary role.
One of the most important perfumery bases of the early 1900s was Firmenich’s Dianthine base. It is a luxurious carnation accord that has not yet been surpassed in its beauty. It was used in huge amounts in many well known fragrances—Coty used 20% in his incredible L’Origan (the inspiration for L’Heure Bleue by Guerlain). Firmenich still make this base but it is, of course, IFRA approved meaning all the goodness has been stripped from it.
I just got my order of Jasmin 231 today and I thought I would tell you all about it as it is virtually never written or spoken about online despite the fact that it is was once a very important Jasmine base. NOTE: formula is now included at the bottom of this post.
Welcome to my perfumery blog. I am a hobbyist perfumer living in New Zealand with an interest in vintage fragrances. In time I intend to sell my perfumes but for now this blog is for me to share my discoveries, formulas, and observations. However, some bases are available for sale and you can find those links at the bottom of the appropriate pages.
The world of perfumery is very secretive and my intention is to dispel at least a part of that by sharing my formulas with you in the hopes that it will help you to learn from my discoveries. The more perfumers the better!
It should be noted that most of what I post here will not be IFRA compliant as I am specializing primarily in vintage fragrances and formulae.